The overnight bus was reasonably comfortable though the road surface deteriorated as we moved further from La Paz (it is the financial capital so has better roads, though Sucre is the political capital). Uyuni, in contrast, is stuck up on the Altiplano in the middle of a huge salt lake/salt flats depending on the time of year - a virtual desert! Arrived on time at 7am, so went to look for some breakfast at the comedor (dining hall) of the local market where llama stew was on offer - very tasty after the journey! Then went to find the agency organising the tour which didn't open till 9am. There was some confusion as the other bus from La Paz, containing the guide and one client, had broken down en route 3 times and didn't arrive till 11am, so we were late leaving. But the guide Paul was great and the others in the group - Isobel and Danny from Australia, CJ from Canada and Andy from Switzerland (Italian) - were all good fun too.
We first visited the train cemetery, where steam trains and rail cars dating back to 18th century sit decaying and graffiti- ised. Uyuni used to have a rail car factory. The wind was cold, temps often reach -15 at night but they were an impressive sight and fun to climb on. Then on to the Salar de Uyuni which was covered with about 5cm of water - a vast area 12,106 km2 and the world's largest salt flat, at altitude 3653m. The surface perfectly reflects the clouds, we walked through barefoot and climbed the piles of salt made by locals for selling when dried out, nearly 20,000 tons per year. They also extract lithium, which should fuel their economy for the next 100 years (and our computers, iPods, phones etc) Other areas were dry and pure white, with cracks in hexagonal patterns formed as the water evaporated, others there were long lines or completely flat, quite eerie to drive across for miles. The Daakar rally passes here and they have made a monument to it all from salt blocks. The nearby restaurant where we ate was also made from salt blocks, the floor of loose salt and salt in the cracks - amazing construction but comfortable, even if not too well insulated at night!
Our meals were simple chicken and salad, with fruit and fizzy drinks (mmm, water for me!) and it took the rest of the day to cross the flats as you can't go fast through the water or the 4x4 s don't last the season. In fact the one we were in with owner/driver was from 1997 and since imported from USA was automatic - not brilliant on the steep dirt roads but no choice as
European vehicles cost more to import.
Our posada (rest house) was also made of salt and very nice, with welcome cup of tea and biscuits and dorm room for our group. Had to queue for the showers as only one was working for around 60 guests! I got in just before dinner thankfully, especially having spent the previous night on the bus! Very good meal of chicken and chips ( a lot of chicken over here) then lights out at 10pm as generator turned off.
Up early at 6am for breakfast, disappointed with poor bread and jam plus coca tea ( excellent for altitude sickness! ). Then off again through slightly more fertile zones with fields of quinoa, sparse, but about the only crop at that altitude. On the hills it was mainly cactus, tall and sometimes branched, with some low scrubby bushes. On to the Laguna Colorado and other lakes where the highlight is the flamingoes. There were pink, James' and Bolivian species, along with llama, black headed seagulls (so far from the sea), a variety of ducks and other bird species. We also saw groups of wild vicuna along the way, protected so not too shy though apparently extremely fast when those with licences want to catch and shear them!!
An interesting set of rock formations including one called the petrified tree was the signal for my camera battery to run out so no photos... But worth seeing
The posada for the second night offered us a room that stank of diesel so we decided after a short 15 minute walk around the lake shores with its huge natural heaps of white borax (like ice or snow banks) around the rims, that we would continue to another hotel. But Danny had taken a longer walk and we only managed to retrieve him an hour later, so our choice was limited to the next closest one, a bit basic but OK. Spaghetti for dinner and fruit so not bad, washed down with Argentinian wine provided by the guide VG and some Bolivian wine we bought. Some people had a real night of it!! The bathrooms in the morning showed the evidence...
Even earlier start, with breakfast at 5.30am (pancakes, cereal and yoghurt!) And on the road to see the geysers of Sol de Manana (morning sun). You could put your hand in one, or run through it as it spouted 4m or more up into the air. But most of them and the boiling hot mud pools were far too hot to approach that closely - impressive though and a good walk. Next stop the thermal waters, where despite being only just above freezing in the air, the springs were beautifully hot, like a bath that doesn't cool down. A delight after deciding not to chance the showers the previous evening on the basis of this dip! There was a flock of llamas that crossed the lake just nearnthensring pool, and flamingoes further up, magnificent setting. We looked for the local Bolivian rhea or Yandu, but no sightings so far.
Through the canyon of Vischachos ( Bolivian chinchilla like creature, very cute, and just sitting out on edges you could get very close) and on to Laguna Verde which was blue, not green and Laguna blanca, which had some white. A quick diversion to the Chilean border to drop off CJ who was getting a bus from there before heading back towards Uyuni, via the other side of the laguna Verde (slightly greener in the afternoon light). We stopped at another group of rock formations including one said to be like Homer Simpson or the Bolivian Presidente Evo Morales (?) I thought there was a brilliant vulture one. And finally two sightings of Yandu - quite small, perhaps 1m tall, in comparison to the rhea but great to see them in the wild. A family of partridge crossed the road too, very sweet, and we also saw a fox which stopped by our vehicle, obviously looked for food. It must be hard surviving out in that desert, with the cold and so little growing. The 7 coloured peak we saw covered with snow, quite unusual apparently, so missed most of its colour. Various volcanoes but cloud prevented us seeing the only active one.
Safe arrival back in Uyuni after such a wealth of sights, thanks to our excellent driver Franz, who didn't drink I'm glad to say. And then to the bus station in the company of Danny and Isobel to get the 6pm bus to Potosi (4h). Fascinating geology on the route, plus interesting signs like llamas crossing, and Yandu crossing, till darkness fell at around 7 pm.
We arrived and took a taxi together to the hostel Koala Den, which fortunately had space, was brilliant, booked us on a
Silver Mine tour for the morning, and provided free breakfast (including scrambled eggs!) All for £5!!!!! And good internet and charging facilities too. A good night's sleep after a lovely hot shower, mmmm!
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